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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

This small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary achievement.