Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, Unesco honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden treasures that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people globally to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
